WEAR BRAKE PADS

[Noel McCutcheon]

1st spin with new (Brembo sintered) rear pads.

Bedding ok after 6 miles; visible at the end of the ride.

There is some chat, to test new mic on windy day, about the US Release 3 days ago. 

 

 

[TimeMachine]

8 hours ago, FAR&FURTHER said:

@TimeMachine strange I was asking because I can't physically click more than the max values I posted or I'm too gentle with it.

@Far&Further, there is a comment in the manual that suggests each unit many vary. 

[Matth]

Bearing in mind the softer the pad the longer the discs will last, the pads are the sacrificial part.

[NeverMetThePope]

Just under 5000km and I've been checking my riding position to make sure I'm not dragging the brake with my foot. Never seen pads wear faster than the rear tyre before...

[Noel McCutcheon]

16 hours ago, NeverMetThePope said:

Just under 5000km and I've been checking my riding position to make sure I'm not dragging the brake with my foot. Never seen pads wear faster than the rear tyre before...

The OEM stock original pads are soft Organic pads that wear fast. 
A Change to Sintered (EBC HH) Pads increases the life at least times two ++.

[NeverMetThePope]

I'd expect them to increase the life by a damned sight more than times two...

[Aleksandar13]

1 hour ago, NeverMetThePope said:

I'd expect them to increase the life by a damned sight more than times two...

I've done 6k miles and I am half way through the rears but I don't off road the bike.. Might be a factor.. I don't know. 

Aleks 

[Noel McCutcheon]

12 hours ago, NeverMetThePope said:

I'd expect them to increase the life by a damned sight more than times two...

You can expect what you want . Yeah, sintered pads will do loads and loads and loads more than twice ++.  So as you expect so much pointless moaning about the original organic ones then

[NeverMetThePope]

On 5/20/2020 at 9:12 AM, Hogan said:

Yep. Just changed mine at 6000ish kms. Caught me out on the way home from work. I managed to pick up some Ferodo pads from the dealer, hopefully they will last longer...

 

[rant]

 

Also the Brembo caliper is an absolute joke for serviceability. It uses a spring loaded collet on the pin to hold it in - which has to be driven out with a punch and hammer. You will have to remove the chain guard and use a long punch to drive it back in - or remove the rear wheel I find it kind of funny they have a retaining pin in this design - it's never going to come out. You may as well bin that clip on the first change. Also that means you need to carry suitable tools - ie a hammer and long punch on any long trip....

 

If rear brake pad changes are going to be 6k intervals, what I might end up doing is threading the hole and machining up a new pin.

 

I thought Yamaha had gone to the dogs when they decided to use Brembo calipers - the only reason they would have done that is for the brand recognition to help sell the bike... the calipers on this bike are the same basic design as any Nissin design or otherwise. It adds nothing to the performance of the bike. What an absolute joke...

 

[/rant]

 

 

 

 

 

Okay, I read your rant. And ignored it completely. 

Having just changed the pads (with the rear wheel off for easier access) I now completely agree. Bloody horrible design. I did this outside my flat with a cuppa, on a beautiful day, with access to all my tools. If I were doing this by the roadside somewhere in the rain, I would not be a happy bunny. If these pads need changing again within 10000km I'm gonna cry...

[bth2]

On 5/19/2020 at 10:12 PM, Hogan said:

Yep. Just changed mine at 6000ish kms. Caught me out on the way home from work. I managed to pick up some Ferodo pads from the dealer, hopefully they will last longer...

 

[rant]

 

Also the Brembo caliper is an absolute joke for serviceability. It uses a spring loaded collet on the pin to hold it in - which has to be driven out with a punch and hammer. You will have to remove the chain guard and use a long punch to drive it back in - or remove the rear wheel I find it kind of funny they have a retaining pin in this design - it's never going to come out. You may as well bin that clip on the first change. Also that means you need to carry suitable tools - ie a hammer and long punch on any long trip....

 

If rear brake pad changes are going to be 6k intervals, what I might end up doing is threading the hole and machining up a new pin.

 

I thought Yamaha had gone to the dogs when they decided to use Brembo calipers - the only reason they would have done that is for the brand recognition to help sell the bike... the calipers on this bike are the same basic design as any Nissin design or otherwise. It adds nothing to the performance of the bike. What an absolute joke...

 

[/rant]

 

 

 

 

 

totaly agree ,the rear is a pita. two things...you need a long punch to replace the sprung pin and you cant remove the caliper without removing the rear wheel. would be interesting if a different caliper/carrier would fit.

[Gezgin Endurocu]

I put semi sintered but it was same my other friend not like this I have a problem next time ı will put full sentered

[delirium]

Same issues I have in xt660z tenere, those brembo brakes are like that I believe...

You put harder pads and your rotors will be gone soon

Edited October 22, 2020 by delirium

[ADVUSA]

1 hour ago, delirium said:

Same issues I have in xt660z tenere, those brembo brakes are like that I believe...

You put harder pads and your rotors will be gone soon

Rideadv recommended and stated in this video to use xt660 brake pads in the rear. I asked them why and have no idea why they recommended?  Better pad material?  Appearantly it fits the T7  

 

[ADVUSA]

Just now, Johnnyboxer said:

Organic material, better feel than sintered - he said

Ok xt660 pads are organic. 

T7 OEM pads are not organic?

[ADVUSA]

So the guys at RideADV in Australia responded that the XT660 pads "provide better petal feel"

and that's why they like them. 

[NotGoodAtUsrnms]

Probably a dumb question but why not swap out the rear caliper if the design is crap? Has anyone figured out an aftermarket replacement that is just drop in and new fluid?

[Canzvt]

On 10/10/2020 at 11:27 PM, NeverMetThePope said:

Just under 5000km and I've been checking my riding position to make sure I'm not dragging the brake with my foot. Never seen pads wear faster than the rear tyre before...

So, I have a question or two for you on this. It looks like your rotor has gotten fairly warm (discoloration). Looking at my pads with 7500kms (2/3 gravel/dirt/sand - 1/3 pavement) on the bike measuring over 5mm per, I'm guessing the following: You live where there are great roads and you ride hard and you use your rear brake hard, OR you ride the brake (you said you don't and checked that), have a stuck caliper piston or have a faulty master cylinder that doesn't relieve the line brake pressure. The reason I mention the above, is that there might be something wrong with your bike in order to wear the pads out so quickly.

 

Perhaps I don't ride hard enough or I just live in the great flat prairie of the world where you have to ride 500kms to find a curve in the road, but I'm still on my original S10 brakes after 41,000kms with tons of pad left and I would be fairly disappointed with Yamaha if I had to change my T7 pads after 15000kms let alone 5000.

 

A quick way to check brake drag would be to raise the back tire off the ground, jam on the brakes hard with your foot, release them, and then spin the rear tire by hand. If there is any drag on the wheel, then there is a problem with your brakes. If you do it a couple of times and the pads are not dragging, then you can eliminate any problems with the bike.

Edited November 2, 2020 by Canzvt

[NeverMetThePope]

Tried and few positions up on the centre stand. Wheel seems to spin freely. Still can't rule out dragging the rear, Occam's razor is usually operator error. I'll let you know I'm another 5000km...

 

[Reeko81]

The real problem with rear brake is always in the brake pedal. Many bikers use to ride with their right foot on the pedal, if not properly adjusted is often too high, and they apply a slight but constant pressure on it. This results in a brake action that makes the pads wear really quickly and also in a bad disc rotor overheating.

You may not have much sensibility when riding with big boots, so I’d rather adjust the brake pedal before start riding. This should be a check done when the bike is delivered by the vendor... 

[NeverMetThePope]

Update time. Here's the new (sintered) pads 5000km later. And the original OEM pads at 5000km. 

 

Haven't adjusted the pedal position. Calipers working properly. Looks like the bike just came supplied with pads made out of Dairy Lee Triangles rather than brake pad material. 

 

Strangely enough, the original front pads still look fine. 

[Totti]

5000 km is normal for organic pads. The sintered pads have worse braking feel than organic pads, and will cause your brake disc to wear much faster.

[Noel McCutcheon]

Feel with Sintered pads is good and brake feels stronger.  An insignificantly higher tad of disc wear is not a concern. Organic pads are much less money and wear faster than Mr Bolt.

[Hannu]

Hi.
It is as many write, driving style, but also where you drive, and the weather.
I drove for a week in the rain and only on growel roads and muddy roads.
Unfortunately, I discovered far too late that the rear brake pads were completely finished.
This after about 400km, so I had to change the brake disc as well.

Lession lerned...

[MCVL]

Guys, you miss the most important point as to why exactly are the rear brake pads wearing so fast.

 

We've rode a 4000kms trip this year and found out the reason.

 

There were 10 bikes total, 3 bikes had exactly the same Brembo brake pads, but 1 of them was Honda and it had about zero wear after all the off-road! NX650 Dominator! As well as other Hondas with different shape brake pads - CRF450X, XR250R

 

All the Yamahas, KTMs and BMWs had extreme wear on the rear, some of them ended up wearing the rotor

 

Tenere 700 had about half left even though the rider used the front most of the time

 

So aside from the legendary reliability and other prejudges they all had one thing in common - a brake rotor cover, it's a shield that keeps your brakes clean in the wettest dirt and you need it to keep the brake pads from needless wear, most old dirt bikes had those, keep that in mind guys

 

Tested in Kazakhstan

 

 

[victay]

Two bikes, same mileage(14000km), same riding conditions (mix of road and gravel roads). Guess we have very different riding styles.