Steering stem tool fail

[SXXP]

Great info all.  Thank you very much.

[AZJW]

6 hours ago, jdub53 said:

 

@AZJW , no that's incorrect. The red outline of your Tq wrench head should be at 90 degrees either direction of where it is positioned in that pic and then the Tq wrench setting is what will be applied at the nut. Reference the crows foot shown in either position below.

 

LOL, ok. I used my torque wrench at 90 degrees as noted, but the picture of the  Torque Extension Calculator in your post above this showed the adapter straight in line with the torque wrench, so figured I'd torqued mine incorrectly.  I torqued it at 90 degrees which your pictures with the crows foot confirms. Thanks!

[jdub53]

Sorry for any confusion @AZJW. I'd just meant to supplement the link/illustration you'd provided by showing the calculations required to obtain the proper torque setting if someone used an adapter/extension at anything other than 90 degrees to their Tq wrench.  

[Hollybrook]

My preference for torque wrench orientation would be in line with the tool and using math to correct the value. With the 90° orientation, there is an additional moment arm that can affect the torque applied if you are not very careful with how you apply force to the wrench. 

[Downeast]

On 8/23/2024 at 3:09 AM, john_aero said:

Might even chance my arm and print one

 

Steering Stem Nut Socket, Yamaha XV535 by DomesticHacks | Download free STL model | Printables.com

 

Or just buy the right one

 

Yamaha MT-09 2021-2022 Steering Stem Nut Socket (gbmotorcycleproducts.com)

Have you confirmed that the linked MT-09 steering stem nut socket does indeed properly fit the T7's nut? Thanks. John

[john_aero]

1 hour ago, Downeast said:

Have you confirmed that the linked MT-09 steering stem nut socket does indeed properly fit the T7's nut? Thanks. John

never printed it, must do it when back from holidays 

 

 

[random1781]

On 8/5/2024 at 3:57 PM, AZJW said:

Bringing closure to this thread, I've used the OEM tool mentioned above on 27 July that works as advertised.  The tool is made from steel ( not aluminum like the TR Diesel one was) and with a shorter arm, anyone would be hard pressed to bend this one out of shape.  RS Cycles was good to deal with and happy to refer folks to them. 

 

 

@AZJW thought he was bringing closure to this a while ago, but the joke's on him!

 

Got to thinking that this could probably be custom laser cut for cheaper than the tool itself and better. I experienced this same phenomenon with the BDCW Helo Pad for the T7 - the hooks that latch on to the seat would be cheaper to have custom laser cut and bent than to order the replacement part directly from BDCW.

 

Why have just one "tooth" when you could have all six? Or a complete circle  instead of a thin piece to bend?

 

 

This quick mock-up using 1/4" 304 stainless steel costs $17.54 - but minimum order amount more than doubles it to $40. If you order 5x of these the grand total is $50.35. I'm going to take the measurements and finalize a design in the next few days.

[roygilbo]

38 minutes ago, random1781 said:

 

@AZJW thought he was bringing closure to this a while ago, but the joke's on him!

 

Got to thinking that this could probably be custom laser cut for cheaper than the tool itself and better. I experienced this same phenomenon with the BDCW Helo Pad for the T7 - the hooks that latch on to the seat would be cheaper to have custom laser cut and bent than to order the replacement part directly from BDCW.

 

Why have just one "tooth" when you could have all six? Or a complete circle  instead of a thin piece to bend?

 

 

This quick mock-up using 1/4" 304 stainless steel costs $17.54 - but minimum order amount more than doubles it to $40. If you order 5x of these the grand total is $50.35. I'm going to take the measurements and finalize a design in the next few days.

I will take one. Located in Canada. Let me know cost and next steps. Thanks, Ray

[Hollybrook]

@random1781 the downside to that design is that you must be using it on a nut that is at the top of a stack. If you want to tighten one in the center of a stack, the wrench must be thinner than the nut and of a design similar to the Yamaha one. 

 

Making your own tools is fun and often much easier than trying to source one. I have done that in my own garage, but have never considered sending out a design to have it fabricated. I'm intrigued by the idea! 

 

What software do you use for the design and do you have preferred vendors that make parts for you? 

Edited Sunday at 01:09 PM by Hollybrook

[Downeast]

23 hours ago, john_aero said:

never printed it, must do it when back from holidays 

 

 

I was referring to the commercially available socket you linked in your initial post ("just buy the right one"). Wanted to double check before paying to have it shipped to the States.

[john_aero]

1 hour ago, Downeast said:

I was referring to the commercially available socket you linked in your initial post ("just buy the right one"). Wanted to double check before paying to have it shipped to the States.

 

sorry no i didnt.

 

if having to order ti then you can but them closer to home.

 

Simpler option would be buy a deep socket and just file in the spacings

[jdub53]

2 hours ago, john_aero said:

 

Simpler option would be buy a deep socket and just file in the spacings

 

There's a lot of merit in doing just that.

 

Here's a 9/16" Craftsman socket I modified over 30 years ago with a Dremel tool and a carbide cutting wheel, used to torque bearings inside of Bell 222 helicopters' Avco Lycoming LTS-101 turboshaft engines. I had to make this one day after two of the expensive OEM tools broke off their tangs before even half the required torque was reached, and this was then used on many more engines until I left that shop a couple of years later. It still sits in my toolbox, waiting for the next job... 

 

  

 

  

[random1781]

7 hours ago, Hollybrook said:

@random1781 the downside to that design is that you must be using it on a nut that is at the top of a stack. If you want to tighten one in the center of a stack, the wrench must be thinner than the nut and of a design similar to the Yamaha one. 

 

Making your own tools is fun and often much easier than trying to source one. I have done that in my own garage, but have never considered sending out a design to have it fabricated. I'm intrigued by the idea! 

 

What software do you use for the design and do you have preferred vendors that make parts for you? 

Yeah that's a great point. I have a damper and big clamp, so I essentially wind up having to take everything off anyway.

 

So far, SendCutSend is the only company I've used. Their material selection is great, prices are reasonable, website makes everything pretty intuitive (and instant quoting), and their people go back and forth with you if they think there might be an issue with what you're trying to do.

 

I bounce around with a lot of software packages. FreeCAD for 3D and LibreCAD and Inkscape for 2D. All of these are open source and don't come with any use restrictions, but they are pretty primitive. They work great for simple things though, like this tool.

 

I spend a lot of time using Solidworks because I've had access to it, but that time is running out and honestly I'm not a huge fan of it. I need to start weening off of this.

 

Autodesk Fusion has a free option for personal use, and that's what I'm trying to work in now.