Steering stem tool fail

[AZJW]

Finally got around to pulling the Forks & bars to re-grease my steering stem bearings today.  I was pleasantly surprised to see Yamaha did a decent job of greasing the stem bearings, so just a clean up and re-greasing was all that was needed.  Since I don't use a steering stem tool, but once every year or two, I opted for a cheap one ($32) off of Amazon.  Stinking thing bent on the first use, slipped off the nut and basically tacoed the curve meant to match the nut radius. I didn't use it within the 30 day return window so I'm stuck with it.

Not wanting to wait for a decent tool to arrive to set the bearing preload & torque, I used a FBF (farm boy fix) to keep going.  I found a BAW ( big ass washer) and filed / dremmeled the hole to fit over the lower stem threads where the double castelated nuts reside.  I seated the first nut, slipped the BAW over that to hold the tool at 90° to the stem and hand tightened the second castle nut down to hold the washer firmly against the tool.  Got the 55 ft. Lbs set, flipped the assembly to loosen the lower nut and again reversed the assembly to set the 5.2 ft. Lbs of torque.

 

It ain't pretty, but it worked and this might help someone out who like me doesn't want to stop  maintenance to wait for a tool replacement.   If someone has a source for a good OEM tool, please post below as this junk TR Diesel tool is going in the round file.

 

 

 

 

 

[thepointchris]

"old generation" bicycle bottom bracket tools come to mind:

HCW-5 Bottom Bracket Wrench — Cup-and-Cone Lockring

---

A double-ended wrench for notched lockrings commonly found on adjustable cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

 

[Samm]

59 minutes ago, thepointchris said:

"old generation" bicycle bottom bracket tools come to mind:

HCW-5 Bottom Bracket Wrench — Cup-and-Cone Lockring

---

A double-ended wrench for notched lockrings commonly found on adjustable cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

 

I actually have an old bicycle bottom bracket tool that I welded a 3/8” drive adapter to so I could torque my T7 stem nut. Did it work well? Hell no, but it worked!

[AZJW]

Those would probably do the job just fine, but I'd need to file a 3/8" or 1/2" drive hole for a torque wrench.

[random1781]

4 hours ago, AZJW said:

Finally got around to pulling the Forks & bars to re-grease my steering stem bearings today.  I was pleasantly surprised to see Yamaha did a decent job of greasing the stem bearings, so just a clean up and re-greasing was all that was needed.  Since I don't use a steering stem tool, but once every year or two, I opted for a cheap one ($32) off of Amazon.  Stinking thing bent on the first use, slipped off the nut and basically tacoed the curve meant to match the nut radius. I didn't use it within the 30 day return window so I'm stuck with it.

Not wanting to wait for a decent tool to arrive to set the bearing preload & torque, I used a FBF (farm boy fix) to keep going.  I found a BAW ( big ass washer) and filed / dremmeled the hole to fit over the lower stem threads where the double castelated nuts reside.  I seated the first nut, slipped the BAW over that to hold the tool at 90° to the stem and hand tightened the second castle nut down to hold the washer firmly against the tool.  Got the 55 ft. Lbs set, flipped the assembly to loosen the lower nut and again reversed the assembly to set the 5.2 ft. Lbs of torque.

 

It ain't pretty, but it worked and this might help someone out who like me doesn't want to stop  maintenance to wait for a tool replacement.   If someone has a source for a good OEM tool, please post below as this junk TR Diesel tool is going in the round file.

 

 

 

 

 

I think this is the exact same thing that I have just labeled differently. Been kinda curious about this because before amazoning it I tried to get the Yamaha tool but the part number the service manual referenced didn't come up in the dealer's system.

[thepointchris]

2 hours ago, AZJW said:

Those would probably do the job just fine, but I'd need to file a 3/8" or 1/2" drive hole for a torque wrench.

Yea  I know - I delayed that job, until I had the valves checked/shimmed this week, with the tank off etc, so "had it done", cheating

[Tenerider]

10 hours ago, AZJW said:

Finally got around to pulling the Forks & bars to re-grease my steering stem bearings today.  I was pleasantly surprised to see Yamaha did a decent job of greasing the stem bearings, so just a clean up and re-greasing was all that was needed.  Since I don't use a steering stem tool, but once every year or two, I opted for a cheap one ($32) off of Amazon.  Stinking thing bent on the first use, slipped off the nut and basically tacoed the curve meant to match the nut radius. I didn't use it within the 30 day return window so I'm stuck with it.

Not wanting to wait for a decent tool to arrive to set the bearing preload & torque, I used a FBF (farm boy fix) to keep going.  I found a BAW ( big ass washer) and filed / dremmeled the hole to fit over the lower stem threads where the double castelated nuts reside.  I seated the first nut, slipped the BAW over that to hold the tool at 90° to the stem and hand tightened the second castle nut down to hold the washer firmly against the tool.  Got the 55 ft. Lbs set, flipped the assembly to loosen the lower nut and again reversed the assembly to set the 5.2 ft. Lbs of torque.

 

It ain't pretty, but it worked and this might help someone out who like me doesn't want to stop  maintenance to wait for a tool replacement.   If someone has a source for a good OEM tool, please post below as this junk TR Diesel tool is going in the round file.

 

 

 

 

 

BAW Thanks for that!

[AZJW]

I finally found the elusive OEM wrench for this task.  Apparently Yamaha dealers have troubles locating this tool as it's made for Yamaha by K&L Tool out of California.  I was given their phone number by a dealer who stated they couldn't order it and talked with the folks at K&L who said they're wholesale only and I had to go through a dealer! Huh? I just spoke to my dealer who said they can't order it and directed me to you!  After some discussion,  I was given another dealer's name, but ultimately I found Sun Rising Cycles, also in Kommiefornia.

 

The responded to my email inquiry within an hour providing a picture and confirmation it was an OEM tool, so their customer service was great so far.  The $56 price tag wasn't so bad, plus $18 USPS so I ordered one. I'll report back after trying it out, but caveat emptor as I'm just some joker on the interweb with an opinion worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm

[Ede-DE]

For the top nut I would use something like the tool for the wheel bearing nuts on my car. Unfortunately it has 4 driving pins instead of 6. 2 pins would be a compromise.  For the lower one a tool from this shop.

BTW $ 32.00 is not cheap. This is at € 5.18 cheap chinese crap.

[AZJW]

Bringing closure to this thread, I've used the OEM tool mentioned above on 27 July that works as advertised.  The tool is made from steel ( not aluminum like the TR Diesel one was) and with a shorter arm, anyone would be hard pressed to bend this one out of shape.  RS Cycles was good to deal with and happy to refer folks to them. 

 

[SXXP]

On 8/5/2024 at 2:57 PM, AZJW said:

Bringing closure to this thread, I've used the OEM tool mentioned above on 27 July that works as advertised.  The tool is made from steel ( not aluminum like the TR Diesel one was) and with a shorter arm, anyone would be hard pressed to bent this one out of shape.  RS Cycles was good to deal with and happy to refer folks to them. 

 

 

Picked up the tool for when the day comes to use it - thanks for the link.  Any math to be applied to the recommended torque on account of the tool?  Or, just attach torque wrench and go for it?

 

[jdub53]

In order for correct torque to be applied anytime a sideward extension (like that OEM tool or a dogbone) is used, it must remain at exactly 90 degrees to the Tq wrench head. Any variation from that will result in a torquing error.

[AZJW]

6 hours ago, SXXP said:

 

Picked up the tool for when the day comes to use it - thanks for the link.  Any math to be applied to the recommended torque on account of the tool?  Or, just attach torque wrench and go for it?

 

Like @jdub53 stated, keep the tool at 90° and you're good to go. Decent tool construct, eh?  Hopefully anyone who needs one goes for oem and not that flimsy junk one by TR Diesel I got off Amazon.

[random1781]

14 minutes ago, AZJW said:

Like @jdub53 stated, keep the tool at 90° and you're good to go. Decent tool construct, eh?  Hopefully anyone who needs one goes for oem and not that flimsy junk one by TR Diesel I got off Amazon.

Plus I think since the attachment point being further out on the TR means that the torque specs are off.

[Hollybrook]

1 hour ago, random1781 said:

Plus I think since the attachment point being further out on the TR means that the torque specs are off.

 

I think you can accommodate that with a little math...

 

I ordered one of the tools, but they were out of stock and I've been waiting to hear that they have mine ready to ship.

[Tenerider]

1 hour ago, AZJW said:

Like @jdub53 stated, keep the tool at 90° and you're good to go. Decent tool construct, eh?  Hopefully anyone who needs one goes for oem and not that flimsy junk one by TR Diesel I got off Amazon.

I'm a bit unsure if I got it right: This tool is to be used with an 1/2" ratchet/torque wrench I assume? And you need to attach it perpendicular to the ratchet arm?

I honestly wasn't aware that this way the torque readings are correct, great to know!

[john_aero]

On 7/27/2024 at 2:59 PM, Ede-DE said:

For the top nut I would use something like the tool for the wheel bearing nuts on my car. Unfortunately it has 4 driving pins instead of 6. 2 pins would be a compromise.  For the lower one a tool from this shop.

BTW $ 32.00 is not cheap. This is at € 5.18 cheap chinese crap.

I fitted mine with a tool I found in tool box and then few tappy tap taps with a drift and a hammer.

 

Probably should torque it some time,

 

What i plan to do is use a cheap 1/2" socket and grinder to make my own tool same as above

[john_aero]

Might even chance my arm and print one

 

Steering Stem Nut Socket, Yamaha XV535 by DomesticHacks | Download free STL model | Printables.com

 

Or just buy the right one

 

Yamaha MT-09 2021-2022 Steering Stem Nut Socket (gbmotorcycleproducts.com)

[Windblown]

4 hours ago, john_aero said:

I fitted mine with a tool I found in tool box and then few tappy tap taps with a drift and a hammer.

 

Probably should torque it some time,

 

What i plan to do is use a cheap 1/2" socket and grinder to make my own tool same as above

 

Same. Punch and hammer to feel.  It's important to mumble "click" when you hit it with the last tap though! 

 

[john_aero]

4 minutes ago, Windblown said:

 

Same. Punch and hammer to feel.  It's important to mumble "click" when you hit it with the last tap though! 

 

 

Sounds like you have seen "uncle bumblefcuk" working on gear too

[AZJW]

7 hours ago, Tenerider said:

I'm a bit unsure if I got it right: This tool is to be used with an 1/2" ratchet/torque wrench I assume? And you need to attach it perpendicular to the ratchet arm?

I honestly wasn't aware that this way the torque readings are correct, great to know!

I neglected to take a picture on my bike and this isn't the exact tool adapter, but the principle is the same. Yes, it has provisions for a 1/2" ratchet/ torque wrench.

 

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/renderers/torquewrench/images/90degstraight.jpg

[jdub53]

Sorry if it seems I'm beating a dead horse, but this type of thing is a carry-over from my aviation maintenance career.

 

A more detailed illustration for determining proper torque wrench setting to achieve a desired torque when using any sideward extension/adapter.

 

 

I use the term sideward to avoid confusion with any basic socket extension such as shown below, because again, being at a 90-degree angle, there is no change from the torque wrench setting and actual applied torque.  

 

 

[Hollybrook]

To add to @jdub53's excellent info, you should put your hand on the center of the torque wrench's handle. The old beam type torque wrenches often had a loose handle that was attached to the wrench with a pin through this point that made sure the force was applied there. 

[AZJW]

@jdub53 So I'm not spreading bad info here, the Adapter I purchased should be used thusly?  I had seen examples of using it at 90° to the tool, but your explanation makes more sense. I defer to your experience. 

 

 

[jdub53]

1 hour ago, AZJW said:

@jdub53 So I'm not spreading bad info here, the Adapter I purchased should be used thusly?  I had seen examples of using it at 90° to the tool, but your explanation makes more sense. I defer to your experience. 

 

 

 

@AZJW , no that's incorrect. The red outline of your Tq wrench head should be at 90 degrees either direction of where it is positioned in that pic and then the Tq wrench setting is what will be applied at the nut. Reference the crows foot shown in either position below.