What have you done for your T7 today?

[BikeBrother]

10 hours ago, Noel McCutcheon said:

Packed to fly and meet bike. It cleared Icelandic customs on Tuesday after its shipping from England.

 

Iceland is great to ride around. Done that in 1991. Be sure to have waterproof gear. We had extra high rubber boots up to scrotch ( dont know the english name, fishingboots?) to walk through rivers before crossing them.

Have a great trip!

[Noel McCutcheon]

10 minutes ago, BikeBrother said:

Iceland is great to ride around. Done that in 1991. Be sure to have waterproof gear. We had extra high rubber boots up to scrotch ( dont know the english name, fishingboots?) to walk through rivers before crossing them.

Have a great trip!

@BikeBrother Thanks BB. Fishingboots (waders) good idea and advice thanks

[S.Ga.Rider]

Got her packed for a 7 hour ride tomorrow. I'm headed to Tennessee for the Tennessee knockout hard Enduro race. 

[Alan M]

Fitted a pre-filter today, mind, the way the Scottish weathers been lately might be better with a snorkel

[T7EST]

On 8/4/2024 at 12:29 AM, Tenerider said:

An update on this one:

The battery hasn't sufficient capacity to keep headlights running and charging a tablet at 2 Amp for something like 20-30 minutes when you forget to turn off the key and instead just kill the engine via kickstand or kill switch.

 

No need to ask me how I know it, cos I'll just plainly tell you:

When recovering a buddy's bike and then recovering ourselves from the bike recovery and preparing for a scary downhill section, I've noticed after probably half an hour that the engine wouldn't start. Both Temp readings said "Hi" (but no oil temp warning light), and the display showed "Err". Don't waste your time looking this up in the user's manual, it means the battery is dead.

 

By "dead" I mean the chinese USB charging port indicated a voltage of a whopping 5.7 V, although this was with ignition on. The battery built-in state of charge indicator showed only 2 bars (=bad).

 

Needless to say neither we nor the ATV guy passing us by chance had a jumpstart cable.

But being in the mountains has some advantages: Put in 2nd gear, let her gain momentum downhill, turned on the key and disengaged the clutch - voila! Up and running and the battery shows full charge meanwhile. Obviously, the BMS did its job!

 

Summary: Don't be an idiot like me. Or get one of those batteries with a built-in jumpstart feature (actually a hidden second battery).

Hi, do i get you right that it died because you left the bike standing with the ignition on? 

I have same battery and its been working superb for the last half years allready - running aux headlights, grip heaters, navigation and also charging phone same time while the bike is running - absolutely 0 issues.....

[Tenerider]

4 minutes ago, T7EST said:

Hi, do i get you right that it died because you left the bike standing with the ignition on? 

I have same battery and its been working superb for the last half years allready - running aux headlights, grip heaters, navigation and also charging phone same time while the bike is running - absolutely 0 issues.....

Correct! Left ignition on, and just shut off the engine via sidestand.

 

This way, the headlights keep running, and I've had my Carpe Iter tablet attached to the bike, it was being charged. I think I've let the bike stand there for at least 20 minutes, maybe even half an hour.

No problems afterwards, battery works fine and I assume the built-in discharge protection circuit did its job.

Edited August 26 by Tenerider

[victorbrca]

This was last Friday... I applied vinyl to the transparent plastics on the side of the windscreen and portion of the windscreen (first time doing it):

 

 

Also installed a headlight grill, an e-bay windscreen adjuster, rear brake cylinder guard (not in pictures), and plastic screws on the fork guards:

 

 

 

Saturday I got to take it out on a spin:

 

[Ede-DE]

On 8/20/2024 at 3:20 PM, Ede-DE said:

I always wanted a screw on plate for the side stand. Parking on soft ground areas is always a struggle to find a place where the bike stands solid and the side stand doesn't sink in.

 

As I had some PE material w/o a certain destination I went to work. Cut some round piece out of the PE and took a heat gun to heat up the end of the side stand while parked on the plastic. It took some minutes of heating before the side stand sank into the melting material. I moulded the squeezed out plastic around the end of the side stand and, vóila, here is the result. I certainly will round the edges for the looks. 

Relatively lightweight and no screws. When the plastic is worn out I can cut it away. But as the material is 15 mm thick it will take some time.

As I put just a little more weight to the side stand the stronger spring from Camel was more than necessary.

 

 

[Ede-DE]

Next change to my T7.

I don't like the sudden response of the engine when turning the throttle. And I dislike to install more electronics.  So I ordered the G2 Throttle Tamer and installed it.

 

Always take pictures when dismounting anything on the bike  With a little soap the grip came off in minutes. As the Tamer has a structure on the surface usually no glue is necessary to refix it. But on both ends where there's no structure I applied very little glue.

 

The craftsmenship is superb and the fit is perfect. Made in USA. I ordered in Germany where the shop (THATS-RALLY) had it in stock and was delivered within a few days.

 

 

[James]

Took it in to Mark 1 Motorcyles in Edinburgh to get the exhaust frame holder welded back on

 

Guess I've fallen off to many times.

[Samm]

2 hours ago, James said:

Took it in to Mark 1 Motorcyles in Edinburgh to get the exhaust frame holder welded back on

 

Guess I've fallen off to many times.

First time I’ve seen this but I guess it had to happen to someone eventually. Is that rust just around the weld or is there any inside the tubing? Probably not a bad idea to spray some oil inside the frame rails…

[OK185]

3 hours ago, Ede-DE said:

Next change to my T7.

I don't like the sudden response of the engine when turning the throttle. And I dislike to install more electronics.  So I ordered the G2 Throttle Tamer and installed it.

 

Always take pictures when dismounting anything on the bike  With a little soap the grip came off in minutes. As the Tamer has a structure on the surface usually no glue is necessary to refix it. But on both ends where there's no structure I applied very little glue.

 

The craftsmenship is superb and the fit is perfect. Made in USA. I ordered in Germany where the shop (THATS-RALLY) had it in stock and was delivered within a few days.

 

 

 

From my research, the snatchy throttle on the T7 is caused by a feature called "fuel cut off".

Same as on the MT07, where it was discussed at length. To fix it you need a tuner to disable it.

I think this part won't make any difference to the initial jerk that happens on this bike when getting on the gas. 

[Hammerhead]

6 hours ago, James said:

Took it in to Mark 1 Motorcyles in Edinburgh to get the exhaust frame holder welded back on

 

Guess I've fallen off to many times.

…. makes me glad to have amputated it with the Camel high pipe install. 

[Ede-DE]

19 hours ago, OK185 said:

 

From my research, the snatchy throttle on the T7 is caused by a feature called "fuel cut off".

Same as on the MT07, where it was discussed at length. To fix it you need a tuner to disable it.

I think this part won't make any difference to the initial jerk that happens on this bike when getting on the gas. 

That's not what it is meant to be.

Cruizing at low rpms and accelerating and also slowing down is a lot smoother than before. With the OEM throttle grip the slightest movement of the hand caused a tremendous reaction of the engine. That behavior nearly disappeared with the Tamer. 

[Tenerider]

18 minutes ago, Ede-DE said:

That's not what it is meant to be.

Cruizing at low rpms and accelerating and also slowing down is a lot smoother than before. With the OEM throttle grip the slightest movement of the hand caused a tremendous reaction of the engine. That behavior nearly disappeared with the Tamer. 

ECU flash solved all these issues.

[DT675]

Couple things I've been up to with the T7 lately.

 

Check out this air filter! I may not put a ton of miles on the bike each year, but this has been on all summer.  I just pulled off my Uni pre filter (it was filthy) to clean it and saw this thing looking new still. 

 

I changed from my Tusk tank bag to this NR waterproof bag. For obvious reasons, the Grey on the side panels match the grey on the bike

 

I changed my Oxford heated grip controller to here -

 

Instead of here-

 

And T7 got a new roommate

 

 

Edited September 10 by DT675

[Alan M]

On 9/7/2024 at 3:58 PM, Tenerider said:

ECU flash solved all these issues.

I’ve had my ecu flashed to fix this. It made a slight improvement but I wouldn’t say it’s gone.

 

I’ve recently had a go on a mates 2024 extreme and it was a lot better, no real initial snatch at all. Think Yamaha have been playing with the mapping.

[Tenerider]

3 hours ago, Alan M said:

I’ve had my ecu flashed to fix this. It made a slight improvement but I wouldn’t say it’s gone.

 

I’ve recently had a go on a mates 2024 extreme and it was a lot better, no real initial snatch at all. Think Yamaha have been playing with the mapping.

I should add that I'm also running a different air filter and bigger inlet snorkel...

[Noel McCutcheon]

17 hours ago, DT675 said:

Couple things I've been up to with the T7 lately.

 

Check out this air filter! I may not put a ton of miles on the bike each year, but this has been on all summer.  I just pulled off my Uni pre filter (it was filthy) to clean it and saw this thing looking new still. 

 

I changed from my Tusk tank bag to this NR waterproof bag. For obvious reasons, the Grey on the side panels match the grey on the bike

 

I changed my Oxford heated grip controller to here -

 

Instead of here-

 

And T7 got a new roommate

 

 

The New roommate seems sufficiently different, as to avoid confrontation

[DT675]

No jealousy between the two, the Tiger knows its filling the position of "roadie", as they call them.

[Stagger Lee]

Replaced rear brake pads. Oem looking worn and rough as after 8500kms. Whats with the rust? Never had pads or a disc want to rust like that. Also what's the trick with the pin holding the pads. I managed by tapping it out. Seemed to be an awkward technique.

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 9/12/2024 at 6:08 AM, Stagger Lee said:

Replaced rear brake pads. Oem looking worn and rough as after 8500kms. Whats with the rust? Never had pads or a disc want to rust like that. Also what's the trick with the pin holding the pads. I managed by tapping it out. Seemed to be an awkward technique.

@Stagger Lee A very sharp bang-blow with hammer and a small(er) pin punch is the trick technique for getting pin out and back in. Spring collar needs sharp hit to release or reseat. See my video below. The 2019 oem rear pads are fast wearing poor organic pads. 
 

 

[Chev.]

2 hours ago, Noel McCutcheon said:

@Stagger Lee A very sharp bang-blow with hammer and a small(er) pin punch is the trick technique for getting pin out and back in. Spring collar needs sharp hit to release or reseat. See my video below. The 2019 oem rear pads are fast wearing poor organic pads. 
 

 

Thanks man! Really helpful

[Stagger Lee]

11 hours ago, Noel McCutcheon said:

@Stagger Lee A very sharp bang-blow with hammer and a small(er) pin punch is the trick technique for getting pin out and back in. Spring collar needs sharp hit to release or reseat. See my video below. The 2019 oem rear pads are fast wearing poor organic pads. 
 

 

Thanks, that's pretty much what I did, although I had wheel off to do some cleaning of caliper which made it a bit tricky

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 9/14/2024 at 10:35 AM, Chev. said:

Thanks man! Really helpful

Very welcome man